Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vaillon Premier Cru 2014

The astute reader will notice the singular "Vaillon" instead of the more commonplace "Les Vaillons" on Defaix's label. The boundaries of this vineyard were extended in 1976 to take advantage of its popularity in the market, but the Defaix family owns a prime parcel of old vines (45 years of age) in the original cru—the Vaillon. The steep 28-degree gradient and iron-rich soils of this southeast-facing site render a wine of spicy richness, and Danny’s is a real powerhouse. Showing both remarkable concentration and excellent acidity, this wine has a luscious quality that contrasts gently with the more chiseled crus in his lineup.

On the palate, it is both rich and precise, with a creamy, almost waxy mouthfeel brought into harmony by a vibrant acidity and a flinty, saline-driven minerality. Subtle tones of white truffle, toasted brioche, and wet stone emerge as the wine opens up, bringing forth a depth that can only come from age.