Chateau Troplong Mondot 2019

The magnificent Merlot in the blend has pushed up the alcohol, while also giving a velvet touch and power to the wine. This estate is now on top form, producing this generously ripe, black plum flavored wine. It is lifted by acidity while powering the wine's intensity. Drink from 2026.

The purity of fruit is pretty phenomenal here with blackcurrants, cherries and crushed-stone undertones. Floral notes of roses and violets, too. Full-bodied, yet this is a linear style with super fine tannins and great length and beauty. You really want to drink it. It grows on the palate and shows real power, with breadth and depth. Remains fresh throughout.

Has any Bordeaux château realized a more wholesale stylistic revolution in so short a time than Troplong Mondot? Since Aymeric de Gironde arrived at the estate in late 2017, the ultra powerful "shock and awe" style of the 2000s is out, and a new refinement is in. Of course, the deep clays that define the core vineyards around the château itself are never likely to produce light or ephemeral wines, but de Gironde has astutely understood that (to develop an analogy), when driving down hill, one can ease off on the accelerator. The 2019 Troplong Mondot is a ringing endorsement of the new direction, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of wild berries, violets, coniferous forest floor, licorice, raw cocoa and subtle spices, followed by a full-bodied, velvety and layered palate that's seamless and perfumed, its enveloping core of succulent fruit framed by rich, powdery tannins and lively acids. Harmonious and penetrating, I never thought I'd taste a wine like this from Troplong Mondot. Best after 2027

A flicker of savory leads off, before being quickly absorbed into the core of juicy plum, blackberry and fig compote flavors. Long laces of alder, black tea and espresso crema wrap around the finish, where a hint of smoldering flint checks in before the fruit shows a final finishing kick. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025.

Vibrant violet edging speaks of its limestone soil. I love the purity of the fruits, and the real chalkiness to the tannins on the finish. Clear density but one that is being uplifted by a cushion of air. This is elegant and sappy with cool blue fruits and precisely placed tannins on display. A brilliant wine for understanding terroir impact. Harvest from September 10 to 21 for the Merlots (before the rain), then October 24 for Cabernet Franc and October 7-8 for Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is now from newly-purchased plots that are entirely Asteries limestone, plus a few plots of Troplong that are also pure limestone (as opposed to the clay cover that is found on much of the property).

The second wine of the estate and all Merlot, the 2019 Mondot By Mondot has a juicy, earthy black cherry, spring flowers, pen ink, and graphite-driven bouquet that carries to a medium-bodied red that builds nicely with time in the glass, offering ripe tannins, plenty of richness, and outstanding length. It will keep for 10-12 years, easily. Best After 2022